Before and Afters

DIY Antique Piano Desk

Let me start by saying that I can't take credit for this project. This is all compliments of my handsome husband. We are both musicians, and one of the reasons I have been a little quieter on the blog-front is that I have been spending time writing and creating music. Jeremy is an audio engineer, and as I have been writing more songs, he has been anxious to create a space in our home to easily demo those songs and work on his production skills.

His first goal was to find a studio desk, and he had the idea to find an old piano and convert it. I absolutely love the way it turned out. So, basically, I am the messenger because all this is his idea and execution!

DIY Antique Piano Desk.

 

We found an antique upright piano on Craigslist for $30, and we recruited a few of Jeremy's friends to help us load it up into a trailer. Four guys could barely move it into the trailer. It is unreal how heavy they make these things.

DIY Antique Piano Desk

So here are the materials we used for this conversion: - MDF - Plexiglass (from Lowe's. Cut to fit in store) - White paint - Screws

Simple list!

1. Gut the piano by removing the top front panel & hammers.

This was easier than we expected for the particular piano we have. The front panel removed easily, and taking out the hammers just took a little investigation and unscrewing a few knobs. DIY Antique Piano Desk DIY Antique Piano Desk

2. Cut MDF to fit, paint, and install as shelves.

Jeremy created two shelves. There is a top shelf for the computer monitor and a bottom shelf for some of the other audio gear and panels. Jeremy bought a big thick sheet of MDF and measured pieces to fit the two spots. I primed and painted them a basic white.

DIY Antique Piano Desk

In between the two shelves, he cut a small piece of wood to act as a stabilizer and screwed it into both the top and bottom.

DIY Antique Piano Desk

3. Install plexiglass over keys.

What is a piano without keys? We loved the vintage patina of the old and cracking keys. They aren't ideal for a functioning instrument, but they are great for a desk.

Jeremy had a sheet of plexiglass cut down in store to fit over the keys. Then he screwed into black keys on each end of the keyboard to hold it in place. This allows him to use the keys as another usable desk surface. DIY Antique Piano Desk

4. Dampen the strings

Rather than have the entire chamber of the piano reverberate with every sound, Jeremy dampened the strings by threading simple felt from Walmart through the strings below the main opening so it wouldn't be as visible. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of this part!

5. Install interior lighting.

For $6.99, Jeremy purchased this 3 pack of battery powered tap lights and installed them on the lid of the piano.

DIY Antique Piano Desk And that's it! It was much simpler than we anticipated. Jeremy rolled the piano from the garage to the studio room (thank goodness there were no stairs involved), and the room is starting to take shape!

A little before and after... DIY Antique Piano Desk

DIY Antique Piano Desk

 

We may eventually try to paint some of the chipping parts of the piano, but for now I kinda love the worn look. It gives it character. Jeremy is planning on getting speaker stands and moving the speakers out of the desk. But for now, this has functioned quite well.

DIY Antique Piano Desk

Excited to show you some changes to our new guest room soon!

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Basement Bath Board & Batten Makeover Reveal!

It's a big reveal day on the blog today! I have so many details to share about the steps we took to take our basement bathroom from zero to hero with a few wooden boards and lattice strips. But, first, here is a little photo tour. We started here (photo from the house listing)... simple board & batten

And now... DIY Board & Batten DIY Board & Batten Tutorial DIY Board & Batten Tutorial DIY Board & Batten Tutorial DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

All my plans came to life and I am thrilled with the result. I want to give a good explanation of our personal take on board & batten, but I will say that the tutorial we found the most helpful and followed the most closely is over at Young House Love. 

They also seemed to have a much smoother time with it than I did, so maybe you should listen to them, but I will share my process anyway. This is wordy. Hold onto your houses, ladies and gents.

1. Replace the medicine cabinet with a larger mirror.  DIY Board & Batten Tutorial The tiny medicine cabinet mirror was driving me crazy. Way too small, and the little shelves inside weren't very useful anyway, so we pulled the medicine cabinet out of the wall, covered the giant hole with a piece of plywood, and hung a new mirror that I picked up at home goods over it.

2. Paint the top half of the room.  DIY Board & Batten Tutorial I think you could easily do this before or after the board and batten project. I had to touch up around the edges once I was done anyway, but it was nice having it painted once I finished the project. The color is Gibraltar by Sherwin Williams color matched to Behr Premium Plus Ultra in Satin for bathroom durability. We just used a quart, and it was just the right amount. Don't you love the rich navy? DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

3. Add the horizontal boards. 

We used 1x3" pine boards, and I learned a few very important lessons along the way.

1. 1 inch boards are actually only 3/4 of an inch in width. WHAT?? This ROCKED MY WORLD. And messed everything up. I measured for the room based on 1 inch boards fitting perfectly together, and then I had them pre-cut in store. Then I got the boards home and every.single.one was too short. AH! I was able to exchange one uncut 6' board for an 8' board, re-cut everything, and finally end up with the correct measurements. In retrospect, I wish we had just cut the boards down at home to begin with instead of trying to get such specific measurements (Like 34.25", etc) in store. Lesson learned. 

In total, we used three 8' boards and one 6' board.

2. Make sure you let your wood acclimate to your house.  We let the boards sit somewhere between 3 days and a week in the house before we used them on the wall because they will expand and contract based on the atmosphere in your house.

3. Uneven walls can create problems.  Let me explain. After reading the Young House Love description, installing pine boards to the wall sounded like a cinch. Of course they had a pneumatic brad nailer (which we didn't have), but still, I felt confident that with some liquid nails (heavy duty glue) and some long skinny nails, we could make this happen pretty easily.

That was before I realized that the floor is very un-level and the walls are bowed. The floor is SO un-level in fact that from the left side of the room to the right side is a 2 inch difference!! Also, the wall is really wavy. Thank you, poorly finished basement in an old house.

I will save you the gory details, but after some tears and frustration and the boards falling off the wall like this... DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

I realized that I was going to have to use screws. I really wanted to stick to nails because they are so much easier to cover up, but I had to use screws into the studs on the wall. I chose some 2.5" drywall screws and some skinny wood screws. And with the help of a friend (Jeremy was out of town), and a lot of frustration with our electric screwdriver, I finally got them mounted. PTL. DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

Also, because the whole room is uneven, as I mentioned, I had to align the main back board with the vanity instead of being actually level. It's a mind trick, because it looks level, but this is what the level has to say about that. DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

Fooled ya.

So, in the end, we installed the boards by cutting pine boards to fit, leveling according to the vanity, and using screws into the studs of the wall approximately 3 feet from the baseboards (give or take 2 inches :-)). 

4. Install the vertical battens. 

As per the Young House Love suggestion, we used lattice boards from Home Depot. These are sold by the foot, and I got them cut to 3 feet in store. Sixteen total.

Here we run into the problem of the uneven floors again. And here is where I realized how uneven they really are. I had to cut over an inch off of some of the battens, and I had to ADD length to the battens on the other side. I just cut an extra amount to fit in the space, glued it on with liquid nails, and filled in the gap with spackle. DIY Board & Batten Tutorial DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

After measuring the correct lengths, I placed them 18 inches apart (just a personal preference thing), and taped them up onto the walls to hold into place. All of the studs aren't exactly symmetrical, so I wasn't able to mount each batten to a stud, so I used a combination of liquid nails and skinny nails to attach them to the wall.

Side note: John & Sherry at YHL used a board to double check their spacing as they went. I wish I had done that because one of the boards got off in the spacing and is a little bit wrong. I won't tell you which one; you may not even notice. But once you attach with liquid nails, it is nearly impossible to move without pulling off drywall. So be very certain of your spacing as you go! DIY Board & Batten Tutorial DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

If I was mounting to a stud, I didn't use any liquid nails, but on the other spots, I squirted a bit of liquid nails on the back and then used 3 nails each. No pneumatic nail gun = use a hammer. It took longer, but it was a lot cheaper than buying a nail gun for this project.

Once I got the battens mounted, I got really excited. The stress was over (did I mention the tears and frustration from this project), and it was really starting to come to life. Also, we had guests coming, so I cleaned up and left it this way for several days. DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

5. Fill the spaces. 

Next, I used some basic spackle to fill the nail holes on the battens and the screw holes on the boards as best as I could. I didn't get all of the screw holes filled perfectly. Any tips for making screws disappear into wood? DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

Then, I used some paintable painter's caulk along the top edge and around any of the battens that weren't flush with the wall. This is an important step to making the wood look level with the wall. Because of our uneven walls, this was really important, and I had some very large gaps to fill in certain spots. DIY Board & Batten Tutorial

5. Prime & Paint

This part is pretty self explanatory. I used a foam roller and a hand held brush for cutting in around the edges. 2 coats of Zinnser 1-2-3 stain blocking primer, and 2 coats of White Dove by Benjamin Moore.

I love the warmth of White Dove, and I already had the paint from painting the spare room in the basement but it doesn't match the baseboards exactly...which is something I didn't think about at first. I may go back and paint the baseboards and the door/door frame. I haven't decided.

Finally, I touched up with the blue around the edges of the boards, and voila! I'm so pleased with the result. It is exactly what I wanted.

After some serious blood, sweat, and tears (Did I mention I stepped on a massive glass splinter in the process that was stuck in my foot and caused intermittent bleeding for a full week. That's where the blood comes in), I have come away with a bathroom makeover that makes a serious statement and is the start of bringing our basement from boring to awesome.

And here is a final little before and after...  photo bathroom2_zps666fc83d.jpg

 

Next, I need to add some more storage and accessorize! For now, I will just enjoy this little basement oasis.

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Master Bedroom Reveal

If you've been keeping up with the blog of late, you've seen several updates to our master bedroom. I made a few more changes, and I think I can officially call this a "reveal" as all the boxes have been checked and I am calling it done...for now. You never know when the mood for change will strike once again!Today, I'm going to let the pictures do all the talking. Later, I can share more details about how each part came together.

Master Bedroom Reveal - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Master Bedroom Reveal - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Master Bedroom Reveal - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Master Bedroom Reveal - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Master Bedroom Reveal - All Precious & Pleasant BlogSources: Wall Color: Stonington Gray by Benjamin Moore Ceiling Color: White Dove by Benjamin Moore Ceiling Light Shade: Home Goods (See DIY) Rug: Dash & Albert  (Found at a yard sale) Starburst Mirror: DIY Bed & Dresser: Hand me downs Bedspread & Navy Shams: Anthropologie Rosette Quilt  (Color no longer available) Euro Shams: West Elm Organic Sparrow Song Rectangular Throw Pillow: Home Goods Throw Blanket: Pottery Barn  Curtains: Home Goods Bamboo Blinds: Home Depot (Providence) Bench: Free & DIY Reupholstered Nightstands: Thrift Store/DIY Lamps: Home Goods

Just for a little reminder about the progress of the room...  photo before1_zps715b68b6.jpg  photo progress_zpsf3ae3b27.jpg

This Little (Inexpensive) Light Of Mine...

You may have the same problem I have. Boob lights.

You know the ones. These.  photo ceilinglight2_zps3dcec9e6.jpg

That is the official DIY blogger term for these simple flushmount lights that are so popular with builders and budget renovations. I get it, they are cheap and they get the job done. But they are so not awesome. And I like awesome more than not awesome. And I light my light fixtures not to resemble awkward anatomy.

So I fixed the boob lights in our bedroom and hallway...for less than $15 a pop. There are two ways to do this, so let me share.  photo ceilinglight13_zps078fefd8.jpg

I purchased two drum lamp shades at home goods on clearance for $12 a piece (originally $14 & $16, so even without the sale they won't break the bank). One is a cool white and the other is called "gray" but it is really "greige." It is important for converting a boob light to a flushmount drum light that the shade be a spider shade. That means it has the rods that criss cross across the top of the drum.  photo ceilinglight3_zps13e21e16.jpg

Option 1: Just screw it.

For our bedroom, I decided a filter wasn't really necessary, so I went the easy route. I removed the glass on the light, just like I would if I were going to change the light bulb.  photo ceilinglight10_zps5f4563d4.jpg

You should have a little nut that was threaded onto the metal pole, holding up the glass.  photo ceilinglight14_zpsbed6e07e.jpg

All I did was screw the shade onto the pole with the nut (too many awkward words).

That is all there is to it. The threading on the metal went all the way up, so I just tightened it until the shade sat right below the light bulbs. If you look underneath, you can see the bulbs, but with the layout of this room specifically. it isn't noticeable, and l like the grayish color inside the shade shining through.  photo ceilinglight4_zpsa55c9e89.jpg

Total cost: Shade: $12  photo ceilinglight5_zpsfa49bcaa.jpg

So many projects in the works for our bedroom!  Those Euro shams and gold link pillow are new. Stay tuned!

Option 2: Put a filter on it.

If you want a little bit more finished look, it's easy peasy and doesn't add much cost.

For the hallway, I purchased half a yard of white muslin fabric for less than $2 at Joann Fabrics, and a roll of piping (or ribbon that looks like piping.)

First, iron the fabric and cut it slightly larger than the circumference of the bottom of the shade.  photo ceilinglight7_zps1e2dcfe6.jpg

Then, use some Craft Glue and line the rim of the shade.

Then lay the fabric on top and pull tight. The fewer wrinkles the better. Let it set for a few minutes to let the glue dry.  photo ceilinglight8_zpsa0462a4b.jpg

Next, pull down the edges and glue the piping/ribbon down for a finished look. I had to cut around the edges a little more so that the fabric could hide behind the ribbon.  photo ceilinglight9_zps776143ec.jpg

Tip: line up the start of the ribbon with the part of the shade that fold on top of each other.

Some shades already have piping when you purchase them, in which case you could easily just remove the existing piping and then reapply.

Finally, to get the shade onto the light fixture, you will need to attach the little nut that came from the fixture to the hole in the "spider" part of the shade with a sturdy glue that will bond metals (like heavy duty super glue).

I just flipped the shade upside down and glued them together (you want the nut to be below the shade so that the shade rests on top).  photo ceilinglight15_zps55be2715.jpg

Let it set for a few minutes, and then screw that shade onto the pole (you will probably have to twist several dozen times to get it up far enough.)

To change the bulbs, I plan on just lowering it a bit and changing them from above.  photo ceilinglight11_zps766e7b26.jpg

Total cost: $15 Shade: $12 Fabric: $2 Ribbon: $3

For comparison, here is a ceiling light from Lowe's next to my creation.  photo ceilinglight1_zpse8574879.jpg

Pretty simple, huh? I would love to be able to exchange every boob light for a beautiful, unique creation like the one in the office, but this simple fix is a major update on a dime, and I am happy with that!  photo ceilinglight13_zps078fefd8.jpg

What do you think?

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Metallic Bathroom Gallery Wall

I've had plans for a gallery wall in the main floor bathroom ever since the paint transformation and shelf/key projects. I didn't purchase many things for this gallery wall. I've simply collected pieces over time, and I pulled several together to make an eclectic, metallic based wall. I love the way the gold frame, silver mirror, and antique brass colors all create a cohesive yet eclectic look. Metallic Themed Eclectic Gallery Wall

For hanging the frames, I used the same technique I did on our living room gallery wall, so head HERE for more details on the process.

I have found the most effective way to hang a gallery wall on the first try (without performing nail acupuncture all over your nice smooth wall) is to make replicas of the frame shapes out of paper (I used newspaper), and then tape them to the wall to test out placement. Then take down each paper substitute as you nail the actual frame.

Metallic Themed Eclectic Gallery Wall

Some of my favorite pieces are these monogram plaques (which I made...tutorial to come tomorrow).... Metallic Themed Eclectic Gallery Wall

and this amazing chalkboard art that my cousin made for one of our wedding showers. I have waiting to find a perfect place to display it. While it isn't metallic, I like the balance that the black and white brings to the table. Metallic Themed Eclectic Gallery Wall

The metal tile in the top left corner was something that Jeremy & I found at an antique store years ago, and it has followed me through 3 apartments and now our first house. The wooden door art was a gift from my mother-in-law, and the mirror and hook on the far left were gifts from my mom.

Tip of the day: I believe the key to a great gallery wall is choosing between variety and uniformity and sticking to it. I love gallery walls with matching frames and a uniform look like this one from John & Sherry. Gallery Wall

But, the other route to take is the one I chose which is by having so much variety that everything has a different purpose, like this one from Liz Marie. I love the different shapes, textures, colors, etc. Gallery Wall

In my opinion, anywhere in between uniformity and eclectic can easily feel unintentional.

So, here is one final look at the finished bathroom. I think I am calling phase 1 complete. Still to come (hopefully) is replacing the tile floor. But for now, the vision is done. I think that's the first room I feel that way about!

Metallic Themed Eclectic Gallery Wall

Back tomorrow with more on the DIY Monogram art!

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Bench Reupholstery Before & After

If you missed it last week, I'm running a contest. Take this survey for a chance to win a Starbucks gift card. It only takes a couple minutes! More details here.  photo bench2_zps5fff0846.jpg

This project has been a long time coming. Last summer, our church moved into a building for the first time after meeting in a restaurant for several years. The building was a gift from another church, and it was nothing less than a blessing from the Lord. After we got the building, we did several months of renovations, and there were a lot of old items like books and candles and furniture that were donated and sold. One of those items was a tired old piano bench, and I gave it a home with intentions to recover it for the end of our bed. It's finally done!  photo bench5_zps0ab60f7d.jpg

I picked out a simple pinstripe gray fabric as per my mood board.  For local readers, I purchased it at Brentwood Interiors. I started by removing all of the nailheads from around the bench.  photo bench8_zpsd43949e4.jpg

Next, I was planning on taking off the existing fabric, but I found the foam underneath was in such crumbly and terrible condition that I decided to leave the existing fabric on and just recover it.

The original fabric was cut off around the bottom and fit exactly to the top. I thought I could do the same thing, but the gray fabric is such a different texture that it started to fray at the bottom.  photo bench9_zps7f94353b.jpg

So I messed up the back corner, unfortunately. So, if you happen to come to my house, don't look too closely at the back corner of the bench in my bedroom. As I'm sure you're apt to do otherwise. :-)

After that, I decided to fold the fabric and staple underneath. I folded every corner identically.  photo bench6_zps69426b3e.jpg  photo bench7_zps6f9fb144.jpg

After that, I put the same nailheads back into the fabric with a hammer and a little elbow thumb grease. It isn't perfect, but I'm pleased with the way it came out and the way it looks in our bedroom.  photo bench3_zps2563d8e5.jpg

Sometimes some new fabric and a couple hours work is all you need.  photo bench_zps7365c55f.jpg

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Bathroom Updates: Wall Shelf & Antique Key Hook Towel Rack

We are almost finished with Phase 1 of the main floor bathroom makeover. All that's left is to put a little more art on the walls and I think I will call it complete. Phase 2 will involve some new tile, but we are going to leave that as is for now. Just as a reminder, we started here. Just a basic boring tan on the walls and nothing more. I have since painted and frosted the shower window.  photo bathroombefore_zpsf3ec5262.jpg Last week we finished up a couple more character adding touches.

Here is where we are now. Bathroom Updates It is already looking so much more complete!

Guess how much money I have spent? $40. That's right, folks. Just 40 smackaroos for a facelift on this tired bathroom. Let's break it down: - 1"x8"x6' board for the shelf and the towel wall board: $8 - Paint for the walls: $10 (They messed up my first order and gave me an entire gallon of bathroom ready paint for $10. I've barely used a quarter of it.). - Shelf supports: $10 total ($5 a pop at Lowe's). - Antique Key Towel Hooks: $10. ($5 each at the Flea Market). - Picture frame: $2 at Goodwill. I already had the art. - White paint and primer for the boards: something I keep around the house anyway.

I purchased a 6 foot 1"x8" board at Lowes and had them cut it down in store into one piece for the back wall and one piece for the shelf. I lucked out and 6' was the perfect size for both.

I primed both with Zinnser primer and then painted several coats of plain jane white paint.

For the shelf, I purchased a couple of decorative shelf brackets, and Jeremy installed it on the wall above the toilet. Simple as that. The art above the shelf is a beautiful print of a painting by my grandfather (G-daddy, as we call him). He is an incredible artist, and this is one of two prints I have from his collection. They are so special to me! The other is on our gallery wall. Bathroom Updates For the towel rack, I was inspired by these amazing antique key hooks. Aren't they gorgeous? I immediately knew that a wood plank on the walls and a couple of hooks would bring both functionality and style to the room. There used to be a standard bar towel rack on the wall, but I just don't like those. We have been hanging our towels to dry on the back of the door, but they don't dry well there. Bathroom Updates

So after painting the plank (I decided it would be easier to paint before mounting to the wall, and I'm glad I did), Jeremy used a stud finder to mark the studs in the wall and measured things out so that everything would be straight and symmetrical and awesome. Bathroom Updates Then we used standard drywall screws to attach it to the wall. I decided I wanted something heavier duty than nails for such a large board.

Next I used some painter's caulk from Ace Hardware to fill in the gap at the top of the board similar to the way that John & Sherry over at Young House Love show in this video about their board and batten install. Bathroom Updates I also used standard spackle to cover up the screws as best as I could and went over the board with one final coat of paint and some Miniwax Polycrilic (DON'T use oil based polyurethane on white paint. I repeat. Don't do it.)

Finally, we installed the hooks. They didn't come with matching screws, and standard silver screws would have been a bit of an eye sore, so I used some leftover Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint to coat the tops of the screws.  photo BathroomUpdates5_zpsa727798f.jpg And there you have it!  photo BathroomUpdates6_zps731f2071.jpg I'm thinking of doing a gallery wall above the towel rack. Something like this? What do you think? Bathroom Updates

{source} from Chris Loves Julia Bathroom Updates

{source} from Holly Mathis Interiors. Signature

Basement Stair Makeover Part 2 - Chair rail & paint pick me up

The vision must be followed by the venture. It is not enough to stare up the steps - we must step up the stairs. ~ Vance Havner

I worked last week to transform our basement stairway into something more exciting. (See more about painting the steps dark gray, see part 1 here.) Something that says to the guests who enter through the basement, "Hey welcome to our house. Come on up and make yourself at home."

And I think it's getting there.

It is amazing what paint and stain can do. Just to remind you, here is what it looked like before. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog I started by replacing the handrail. The old banister had been chewed by a dog or some other such nonsense, and it was worse for the wear. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog So I headed over to  Lowe's and picked up a 12 foot banister and had them cut it down in store to 9.5 ft. It was about $30, and they had a wide selection!

Then I set it up outside with our sawhorses. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Here are my supplies. I had everything already, so I didn't spend money on anything except the railing! Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog First I applied a wood conditioner and let it set for between 1 and 2 hours. Wood conditioner evens out the tone of the wood and allows the stain to go on more evenly.

The method I have determined works best for us when staining raw wood is to apply and immediately wipe off first in order to test the color. Raw wood soaks the color in immediately. So Jeremy applies with a sponge brush and I come behind with a stain rag to wipe off. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog We did this about three times until we got to the color we wanted. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Then two coats of Miniwax Polyurethane finished it off.

Having this beautiful freshly stained handrail already made such a difference! Then I painted the inset part of the wall behind the rail and the opposite wall for some added appeal. It really makes the baseboards pop! I used Revere Pewter by Benjamin Moore...our favorite color choice throughout the house (see our House Tour to see it in the living room, kitchen, hallway, and office)...and had it color matched to Olympic One in Eggshell. It's subtle in these photos, but it definitely makes an impact in person. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog

Next on the list is to hang some white curtains over that basement for some texture. They also will provide some privacy in the basement at night! I think the walls might need some art now too...

And one more look at the finished product. Basement Stairs - All Precious & Pleasant Blog

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FEATURED: Decorating by Answers.com - Flea Market Windowpane to Chalkboard

Today I am celebrating my first ever FEATURE! I recently transformed an old windowpane that I picked up at the flea market for $5 (you may remember here) into a chalkboard for the office redo, and I am pleased to announce that it has been featured on Decorating by Answers.com. You can check out the full post here with more details on how I took this falling apart windowpane to something useful for our space! For now, here are a few photos!

windowpane to chalkboard before and after

windowpane to chalkboard before and after

Be sure to check out all the details on decorating.answers.com.

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Bedside Table Redo & Master Bedroom Plans

Ever since we got married, Jeremy has been begging for a nightstand because our furniture set only has one. After over a year of putting his drink and book and phone on the floor, it was time for a new set of nightstands. I found this pair at a thrift store for $20 a piece. They are pretty and in great shape. Someone obviously put a lot of work into them, but they aren't exactly my style. So I decided to try my hand at distressing for some antique white, lightly distressed bedside tables. bedside tables I tried out a few shades of gray, but it just wasn't quite right.

These are laminate, and you can see my complete tutorial on painting laminate here. And another example of laminate painting here.

The absolute key is Glidden gripper primer. I swear by this stuff when it comes to painting laminate. Here were the steps I took... 1. Two Coats of Glidden Gripper Primer 2. Two Coats of Antique White by Valspar 3. Distress 4. Two Coats of Miniwax Polycrylic

So, here is the key to simple distressing...

Paint a coat of brown underneath the the primer and paint. In my case, the brown on the existing paint served as that coat. Then use a medium grit sandpaper to rough around the edges just enough so that the brown shows through. bedside table redo In my case, all the rounded edges and nooks and crannies were the perfect spots for distressing. bedside tables This is all a matter of taste and eyeballing to get exactly the look you want... bedside tables Finish it all off with a couple coats of Miniwax Polycrylic for a long lasting finish! *Tip: Don't use polyurethane on white paint. It WILL turn yellow. Polycrylic works great because it is water based instead of oil based and will not yellow over time. It goes on milky white, but it dries clear. bedside table redo So there you have it. We did a little rearranging in the room to open the space up a bit. I think the lamps at Home Goods are a good start...we are on our way to a stylish bedroom. Here are some of my future plans: bedside tables - Install Curtains over the windows - Reupholster a bench for the end of the bed - Find a rug - Style the nightstands - Art for the walls - More decorative pillows for the bed

Stay tuned...

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